Your edition of this book may require the following corrections, these appear in bold:
Page 24 – Shape heel
Row 2: P27, wrap 1, turn.
Page 32 - Method
Cast on 50 sts and arrange on three needles thus: N1 12 sts; N2 12 sts; N3 26 sts.
Knit 1 row.
Knit 3 rows, foll patt on N1 and N2 and working the 26 sts on N3 in k.
Using the 26 sts on N3, work 25 rows st st to form heel.
Next row: K15, skpo, k1, turn.
Next row: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl1, k6, skpo, k1, turn.
Next row: Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Next row: Sl1, k8, skpo, k1, turn
Next row: Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn.
Cont as set by rows above until 16 sts rem.
Rep last 2 rounds until 50 sts rem (12 sts on N1; 12 sts on N2; 26 sts on N3).
Page 40 – Cable pattern
C3F: slip next 3 sts on to a cable needle and hold at front of work; k next 3 sts, k3 from cable needle.
Cast on 40 sts divided evenly between four needles.
Round 1: P2, k8 across N1; p2, k8 across N2; p2, k8 across N3; p2, k8 across N4.
Rep last round 5 times.
Round 7: Work sts on N1, N2 and N3 as before; on N4 p2, k1, C3F, k1, p2.
Round 8: Work as round 1.
These 8 rows form wide rib and cable pattern. Rep twice or to length desired for leg of sock.
Next round: Work next 3 sts on to needle 4. Rearrange sts to work over 3 needles, placing the last st from N3 on N4. This needle should now contain 16 sts and will now be referred to as N1. Divide rem 24 sts between N2 and N3 for top of foot.
Turn and work 23 rows on the 16 sts on N1, slipping the first st of every row and keeping cable patt correct.
Row 1: Sl1, work in patt across 11 sts, ssk, turn.
Row 2: Sl1, p8, p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k8, ssk over gap, turn.
Row 4: Sl1, p8, p2tog over gap, turn.
Row 5: Sl1, k to end (12 sts).
Stop working cable patt now, but cont with rib panel as set on top of foot until toe.
Round 1: Still using N1, pick up and k 12 sts along side of heel flap (N2); k across 24 instep sts on N2; on N3, pick up and k 12 sts from other side of heel, then knit the first 6 sts of N1 to reach centre of heel sts (60 sts).
Round 2: Work to last 3 sts on N1, k2tog, k1; work across 24 sts on N2; on N3 k1, ssk, k to end (58 sts).
Round 3: K.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until 44 sts rem.
Round 1: On N1, k to last 2 sts, k2tog; on N2, k2, ssk, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2; on N3 ssk, k to end (40 sts).
Page 54 – Heel
Next row: K27, s1l wyif, turn.
Next row: S1l wyif, p26, s1l wyib, turn.
Next row: S1l wyib, k25 s1l wyif, slip same stitch back, turn.
Next row: P24, s1l wyib.
Next row: K23, s1l wyif.
Next row: P22, s1l wyib.
Next row: K21, s1l wyif.
Next row: P20, s1l wyib.
Moss Stitch Shoesocks
Page 111 – Tension
24 sts and 32 rows to 4in (10cm) over stocking stitch using 3.75mm needles
Sirdar Sublime Baby Cashmere Merino Silk DK (116m per 50g)
Page 112 – Sock top
Pick up and k7 sts up R side, k7 sts across top, pick up and k7 sts down L side; moss stitch across 21 sts on stitch holder, ensuring buttonhole is to L of needle (42 sts).
Sole [replaced heading top]
Next row: Inc in first st, k to last st, inc in last st.
Rep this row until there are 21(29:38) sts.
Delete Shape heel and all of Next row line.
Work straight, inc 1 st at end of each row until there are 29(37:43) sts.
Work 2 rows without shaping.
Work straight, dec 1 st at end of each row until there are 20 (28:38) sts.
Work straight, dec 1 st at each end of every row until 12(16:20) sts rem.
Page 132 – Method
Row 2: Inc 1 in first st, k13, inc 1, k to last st, inc 1 (35 sts).
Row 4: Inc 1 in first st, k14, inc 1, k3, inc 1, k to last st, inc 1 (39 sts).
Row 6: Inc 1 in first st, k15, inc 1, k5, inc 1, k to last st, inc 1 (43 sts).
Row 8: Inc 1 in first st, k16, inc 1, k7, inc 1, k to last st, inc 1 (47 sts).
Change to st st and work 9 rows.
Next row: K9 and place these sts on a spare length of yarn, cast off 19, k to end (9 sts on needle).
Next row: K across 9 sts, then k across sts on spare yarn from heel end, thus working across the back of the heel (18 sts)
Next row: K18, cast on 11 sts for strap.
K 1 row on these 29 sts.
Buttonhole row: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, yo k1.
Work 1 row.
Rep for second shoe, working one extra row before casting on for strap to make a left and right shoe.